Volcanic soils make for interesting wines, and many of Campania’s famous terroirs are of volcanic origin. Mount Vesuvius is an active volcano just east of Naples, and the organically farmed vineyards of Villa Dora are on the lower slopes of the volcano, inside the national park that surrounds it. The soil, ground-up pumice really, looks like black Grape-Nuts, and the wines are strikingly flavorful and distinctive. There is no known scientific reason why certain minerals in the soil would affect the flavors of the wines grown in that soil, but I have to think there’s a connection. I hope you like these wines as much as I do.
Campania produces some of Italy’s best and most distinctive white wines, and this is a fine example: clear struck flint aroma, with hints of white peach, preserved lemon, flowers, and herbs; medium-plus weight, excellent fresh acidity, very long finish. The wine is made of organically grown Coda di Volpe (80%) and Falanghina (20%) grapes, fermented and aged in stainless steel with no oak or malo-lactic fermentation.
80% Piedirosso and 20% Aglianico, organically grown: broad reddish-black color; smoky aroma with a hint of tar (notes I often find in red wines grown in volcanic soils); aroma and flavor of black fruit (blackberry, black cherry) and woody herbs (thyme, bay, rosemary); medium-weight but light on its feet. It is aged in puncheons for about a year. Drink now with red meats or cellar.
80% Piedirosso and 20% Aglianico, organically grown: fairly deep black-red color; same black fruits and woody herbs in aroma and flavor as the Gelsonero, but with the volume turned up. This is a big, powerful wine, yet with fresh acidity, mouthfilling but not bitter, una bomba. I would guess this will age easily for 10+ years but is a great drink now with red meats. It is aged in puncheons, 1/3 new, 1/3 each 2nd and 3rd fill.
Above are words from Oliver McCrum – www.omwines.com